Anthony Anti-Corrosion Coatings and Supplies BLOG

The Rainbow of Rust: Uncovering the Causes Behind Different Coloured Rust

Wed, 03 Jul 2024 14:04:20 GMT

Rust: What you need to know

Rust, a common enemy of metal surfaces, comes in a surprising array of colours, each revealing valuable information about its origin and nature. Today, we'll embark on a journey to explore the different colours of rust, their causes, and what they mean for your metal structures.

Red Rust: The Classic

- Cause: Iron oxide, formed by exposure to oxygen and moisture

- Significance: The most common type, indicating surface corrosion

Yellow Rust: The Hydrated Cousin

- Cause: Iron oxide hydroxide, formed by exposure to water or high humidity

- Significance: Indicates a more advanced stage of corrosion

Brown Rust: The Mixed Bag

- Cause: Iron oxide hydrate, a mixture of red and yellow rust

- Significance: Signals a more severe corrosion process

Black Rust: The Heat-Induced Enemy

- Cause: Iron oxide magnetite, formed by high temperatures

- Significance: Indicates a hard, flaky crust that's difficult to remove

Green Rust: The Saltwater Saboteur

- Cause: Chloride-induced corrosion, formed by exposure to saltwater or seawater

- Significance: Indicates a highly corrosive environment

White Rust: The Galvanised Menace

- Cause: Zinc oxide, formed on galvanised surfaces exposed to moisture and carbon dioxide

- Significance: Signals a weakened protective layer

Blue-Green Rust: The Copper-Induced Corrosion

- Cause: Contact with copper or copper alloys in the presence of moisture

- Significance: Indicates a corrosive reaction between metals

The colours of rust offer valuable clues about the underlying causes of corrosion. By recognising these colours and understanding their significance, you can take informed action to prevent and treat rust, protecting your metal structures from further damage.

Stay vigilant and keep the rainbow of rust at bay!

What you can expect from an Anthony Chassis Treatment

info@anticorrosioncoating.co.za (Marie-Louis Dreyer) — Wed, 06 Sep 2023 09:09:21 GMT

Spoiler alert We do not just "slap on a coat of paint".

Lately, some manufacturers are excluding chassis corrosion damage from their warrantees, so looking into rust protection on the chassis and underbody has become the next step in vehicle maintenance.

When it comes to a long term, durable and effective anti-corrosion chassis treatment, Anthony has perfected the process.

After almost 30 years as a high-end detailer, with most spent researching more effective ways to treat and prevent chassis corrosion, the Anthony Military Treatment checks every box, from aesthetically pleasing to tough as nails with sky high corrosion preventive properties.

As one would imagine, restoring a vehicle chassis to near as factory finish as possible, is not an overnight project.

A minimum of five to six working days are required for an Anthony masterpiece.

Sud 'n scrub.

Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance. This is true in life and chassis.

The best coating in the world will not adhere to an incorrectly prepared substrate. Thorough cleaning is essential.

A heavy-duty degreaser is applied with a foam cannon, agitated with a brush and then rinsed off using high-pressure hot water and steam. This process is repeated until the chassis is completely devoid of all grease, road grime and all mud and sand stuck in various nooks and crannies.

We do ask that you please have the chassis cleaned of excess mud before booking in. Excessively dirty chassis are charged extra for cleaning.

Remember how Granny's kitchen sink used to shine? We would make her proud.

Out! Out! Damned rust!

Much like Lady McBeth's blood-stained hands, established rust is notoriously hard to remove. Converters have proven to be ineffective and a more hands-on approach is needed. We use chelating agents, which neutralise the rust, causing it to fall from the substrate, leaving clean metal behind. Sometimes the rust has eaten so deep into the metal that nylon brushes, flapper discs and good old elbow grease and sandpaper are the only ways to remove it. We try to stay clear of wire brushes as they have a tendency to break, leaving wire particles embedded in the chassis, which will cause rust to form in those areas.

Should we find that the chassis integrity has been compromised by the depth of the corrosion, we will inform the customer and have those sections repaired by cutting out the affected areas and welding in new sections.

Wrap it like a birthday present.

Now that the chassis is clean and rust free, the final preparation stage begins.

First, the entire body of the vehicle is wrapped with industrial pallet wrap. We take special precautions to avoid overspray on the body of the vehicle.

All plastic and rubber components, shocks, brake calipers, exhaust and gearbox (including the transfer case) are covered up with masking tape and wrapping material. Our aim is to restore that chassis to as close to factory quality as possible.

Our team even tape up serial number plates and stickers, to ensure complete restoration to its original glory!

New coat. Wear it like a Boss!

Finally, we are ready for the first coating.

Our Heavy Duty Marine Coating is applied first. This coating is manufactured for us, is not freely available on the market, and comes with a Milspec certification. Flexibility and durability, with top shelf anti-corrosion properties and incredible adhesion, makes this coating, in our opinion, the Rolls Royce of chassis coatings. This coating is guaranteed to not flake, peel, crack or rust creep. Should the paint break due to mechanical removal, touch ups are quick, as only the affected area needs to be treated, unlike other coatings where the entire coating needs to be removed first and then recoated.

The entire chassis, underbody, wheel wells and hubs are treated. Every. Single. Nook. And. Cranny.

Being a thin film coating, nuts and bolt sizes are not affected. Your mechanic will be grateful.

Important to remember. Even though the paint is touch dry upon collection, 10 days curing is required before taking the vehicle on an off-roading adventure.

Pass the lube, babe.

The paint coating has dried, the chassis looks spectacular.

Now for the final coating, also acting as an additional sealant.

Our Corrosion Preventive, Penetrating Drying Oil is exactly what it claims to be.

Goes on like an oil, penetrates the substrate and dries up, leaving a barrier that has been salt, acid and alkaline drag tested. Cleaning after a bit of fun in the mud now becomes much easier as dirt should fall off readily when rinsed with water.

This oil is also applied behind the fenders and any other hard to reach areas where a paint coating is not advised.

The chassis cavity is treated with a Corrosion Preventive, Drying Wax. This wax is also used between overlapping plates and between the leaf springs, in as much as we can reach these areas with our equipment.

What?! There is more?!

Of course, there is...

Being an Auto Cosmetician at heart, Anthony strives to present every vehicle in a condition that would make a dealer principal giddy with pride.

The water channels below the door panels are cleaned and the cavity is coated with the same drying oil as used on the chassis. All nuts, bolts and hinges around the door panels are also treated with this clear coat.

The engine bay is detailed by hand, and nuts, bolts and hinges are treated with the drying oil. The bonnet cavity is also coated.

Before collection, the vehicle is rinsed, dried and prepped for delivery.

If you opt for the Military Plus Option, you can also expect a full body decontamination (industrial fallout removal), stage 1 polish, UV Protective coating and a mini-interior.

Just take my money, please!

With proper care and maintenance, an Anthony Chassis will last for years.

No coating is bullet proof, and we understand that most vehicles sporting our treatment will spend extensive time in the bush, on the beach and in the dunes. When chips and sandblasting happen, do not fret. Touch ups are on the house, if you bring your vehicle in for a paid chassis clean every 6 to 12 months, depending on the punishment the chassis endured.

Mechanical removal, or rust forming underneath the original factory coating/rubberising is excluded. Removal of the factory coating/rubberising prior to coating is possible and quoted additionally.

All in all, money well spent, adding years to the longevity of your vehicle, and giving you the peace of mind that the spine of your vehicle will not deteriorate due to corrosion.

Frequently Asked Questions

Tue, 27 Jun 2023 11:10:06 GMT

Everything you need to know, and more.

FAQ

You asked, and we sat down around a fire, and put together all the answers.

Q. Where are you based? Do you have branches in other provinces?

A. We are based in Parow East, Cape Town. Sadly, this is the only location currently. That said, Cape Town is awesome this time of year! Come down for a wine tour and let us sort that chassis!

Q. How long have you been treating vehicles?

A. Anthony, a bespoke auto-cosmetician, has been detailing high end vehicles (think “investment cars”) for 30 years. During this time, he built up a massive knowledge base, investigating and experimenting with corrosion solutions as an add on to detailing. In 2018 Anthony perfected the process and secured a manufacturer who designed and manufactures the coating he uses to this day. This is now our core business, and he has launched a range of DIY products to ensure that the entire vehicle, from chassis to roof, is protected against corrosion.

Q. Do you only work on 4x4 vehicles?

A. All vehicles are subject to corrosion. Even your day-to-day vehicle that is stored in a garage. If it fits into our workshop, we can work on it. All types of vehicles, trailers, horseboxes, caravans, and more are welcome.

Q. How long does it take to complete a chassis treatment?

A. A minimum of 5 to 6 working days. Ideally, we ask that vehicles are booked in on a Monday, to be collected the following Monday.

Prep and cleaning alone take 3 days, with multiple coatings that follow after. These coatings need time to flash off before we apply the next.

Anthony’s chassis treatments are renowned for the attention to detail and thorough application.

We do not take shortcuts.

Q. What is included in a chassis treatment?

A. Our standard chassis treatment includes:

· Entire chassis, underbody, wheel wells and hubs.

· Chassis cavity

· Engine bay detail (by hand) and treating nuts, bolts and hinges around the engine bay.

· Bonnet cavity

· Door panels (cavity)

· Nuts bolts and hinges around the door panels.

The gearbox, exhaust system, brake calipers, shocks and all rubber and plastic components underneath the vehicle is wrapped prior to coating.

Q. Why don’t you coat the gearbox and exhaust?

A. Gearboxes are designed to allow for airflow, and it is never a good idea to coat them for the risk of overheating. Our de-rusting process will clean off any rust stains and we do our utmost to restore the gearbox to its original state.

Exhaust systems go through incredible temperature changes in a short space of time. Any coating will only last a few months before peeling off and your vehicle will smell like a paint shop throughout. Rather invest in stainless steel system.

Q. I am busy with a project vehicle. When should I bring it in for the chassis treatment, before or after I have tended to the body and upgrades?

A. We recommend that you do everything else first, then bring it to Anthony as the very last step in your build. Because of his years of detailing, he ensures that there is no overspray on the body, and that the vehicle leaves our shop looking as close to showroom condition as possible.

Q. What guarantee do you offer on your work?

A. It is impossible to predict how a vehicle will be used after we have completed a chassis treatment. It could be used as a day-to-day driver, stored in a garage, or it could go off on an adventure through the salt mines of Botswana or the Atlantis Dunes.

With this in mind, we offer a free touch up when you bring in your vehicle every 6 – 12 months for a paid for chassis clean and inspection.

This covers stone chips, sandblasting and normal wear and tear. Mechanical removal is excluded.

No paint is bullet proof, so chips and sandblasting can occur. A twice per year visit will ensure a rust-free chassis for many years to come.

Our free touch up offer is only valid if you follow our maintenance program and use Anthony Approved products as a maintenance regime.

We are also in the process of issuing a “corrosion maintenance book”, like your service history book, with every treatment completed.

This book is linked to the VIN number, so the guarantee will pass on to the new owner should you sell your vehicle.

Our paint is guaranteed against:

· Peeling

· Flaking

· Cracking

· Rust Creep

Q Do you steam clean the engine?

A. No. Water and electronics do not play well together. We do, however detail the engine bay by hand from the top, bringing it back to as close as showroom condition as we can.

Q. Do you remove the factory coating?

A. No. Removing the factory coating will void the factory guarantee. Our paint will adhere to the original coating. Any other aftermarket coatings will be removed, at an extra cost. Our paint will adhere to most coatings, but we cannot guarantee that these coatings will not delaminate over time, causing our paint to come off as well.

Q. Can I use bitumen or rubberising on my vehicle chassis?

A. We strongly advise against bitumen, rubberising or any other off-the-shelf aftermarket coatings. In our experience these coatings have very little to no anti-corrosion properties and are not designed for long term chassis protection.

Rubberising and bitumen will trap moisture between the coating and the substrate, resulting in rust creep where the eye cannot see.

Q. Can I spray my chassis with old oil to protect it when I go to the coast for the holidays?

A. Please don’t. You have seen what your old chips pan looks like? Same gunk will form on your chassis. We have developed a hydrophobic DIY oil coating that is easy to apply, does not drip, dries to a touch dry film, and is tested against salt exposure, acid and alkaline drag. It is also a very effective lubricant, which can be safely applied to all ferrous and non-ferrous metals.

Check out the Weekend Warrior in our online shop for short term chassis protection or as a part of your maintenance program.

Our Legion oil has the same properties, with the added bonus of being dielectric. Think WD40, with punch.

Q. Do you use rust converters?

A. No. Rust converters are lovely for DIY projects like garden furniture or fences. On a vehicle chassis we have found them to be less than effective, converting the top layer of rust, leaving the lower layers to continue creeping under the surface. Rust converters start peeling off very soon after application, leaving the substrate exposed to further corrosion.

We use chelating agents and good old elbow grease to remove the rust completely.

Q. How long do I need to wait before I can take the vehicle off road?

A. Our paint will be touch dry upon collection and perfectly safe for normal driving. Please wait 10 days before going off-road, to give the paint time to cure completely.

Q. Why is it important to maintain a rust-free chassis?

A. All vehicles rust, regardless of size, price range and age. Your chassis is the backbone of your vehicle, carrying the weight of the body, engine, passengers, and cargo transported.

A European study found that you are at a 20% greater risk of being seriously injured, or killed, when driving a rusted vehicle.

Chassis rust is not always visible at first glance. Speak to a professional for a detailed inspection to ensure future safety.

Q. Can you remove body rust?

A. Alas, no. Our spray booth is designed for chassis, underbody, and industrial applications. Body rust is best addressed by a reputable panel shop.

Q. I only have a little bit of surface rust on the chassis. Do I really need to attend to it?

A. Yes. Rust is like cancer. It will not stop spreading unless you deal with it aggressively.

Q. What happens if the chassis has corroded so badly that the integrity has been compromised?

A. Depending on the severity of the damage, we can cut out affected areas and replace, or we can direct you to one of our trusted fabricators for repair, after which we will treat the entire chassis for ongoing protection.

Chassis Corrosion – The Underestimated Killer

Sat, 17 Jun 2023 01:31:14 GMT

Chassis Corrosion – The Underestimated Killer

Be it an Off-Roading 4x4 or Daily Driver , all vehicles are subjected to corrosion.

A recent study , conducted by a European Insurance Firm, concluded that a rusted chassis puts occupants at a 20% higher risk of being killed by an accident. Twenty percent . You, or someone you love, have a 2 out of 10 chance of being killed due to a compromised chassis.

Think about this for a moment. All vehicles are subjected to corrosion, regardless of size, price range and age, and corrosion is a potential killer.

The general, but erroneous perspective is that 4x4 and off-road vehicles are most at risk. A daily driver, kept in a garage is perceived to be safe from corrosion and its hidden dangers. Today, due to the high levels of contaminates in our environment, this is no longer the case.

Anything from brake dust to water puddles (they are saturated with minerals and contaminates) will speed up the corrosion process. A small chip or scrape in the factory coating will fast develop into surface rust, graduating to aggressive penetrating rust in no time.

A well-loved, compact 4x4 has recently been in the news over corrosion presenting on the chassis in less than a year after purchase. Most vehicle manufacturers do not include chassis rust in their warrantee, leaving customers to spend thousands of rands, rectifying the problem. If they pick up on it at all.

Risks associated with chassis rust :

Insurance claim payouts (usually not covered)
Roadworthiness
Steering
Suspension
Brakes
Vehicle integrity and load bearing (remember, the chassis carries the entire weight of your passengers, cargo, and the vehicle body itself).
Accidents resulting in serious injury or death.
Loss in resale value

A quick look underneath does not always reveal the deeper-seated corrosion issues. It is therefore very important that a professional corrosion specialist inspect the entire chassis and underbody to determine the extent of the damage.

Remedy :

Beware of cheap repair centres and DIY coatings. Most off-the-shelf coatings are not strong or flexible enough to handle the twisting of a vehicle chassis, resulting in the coatings peeling off withing a few months of application. Strong anti-corrosion properties are an absolute must, applied with care to reach all the nooks and crannies. Rust converters have, in our experience, proven to be a short-term solution only, with rust continuing to creep underneath the coating, unseen. Full rust removal is needed, with structurally damaged parts removed and replaced where necessary.

Never use rubberising or bitumen on a chassis. These are lovely products for water-proofing your roof, but on a chassis they are worthless.

Consult with a corrosion specialist , who understands vehicle corrosion and who can remove and treat the chassis and under carriage to ensure that your asset stays intact and loved ones safe and secure.

I got stuck on the beach with my vehicle. Now what?

Tue, 16 May 2023 08:51:01 GMT

Getting stuck with your vehicle is never fun. Well, it is. Sometimes. We being children at heart and all that.

After the recovery, life does not go on as usual. You now have salt particles stuck in the engine, on the chassis and all over the body. And this needs to be removed ASAP! This is also true for those occasion when you travel through rivers, play in the mud or chase the tides.

Spraying down with water only is not enough. Applying a degreaser and giving it a good wash – not so much either.

What is needed here is a thorough, deep rinse with a solution that will convert salt layers into water soluble particles . Wash with an anti-corrosion cleaner and rinse with clean water to remove all contaminants.

Follow through with an oil treatment on the chassis and engine bay and a quick detailer on the body to bring back the luster and shine.

Looking after you vehicle and using the correct products at the right time will keep your vehicle rust free and add many years to the longevity of the structure.

The Importance of Choosing the Correct Anti-Corrosion Treatment for your Vehicle Chassis

Tue, 16 May 2023 08:42:30 GMT

We all know and understand the importance of vehicle maintenance.

In today’s economy, it almost goes without saying that prevention is better than cure, cure being replacing expensive parts and components due to corrosion damage.

In the past, attention was placed mainly on body and engine maintenance. The chassis, being out of sight, seldom received love and attention, with potential dire consequences.

Thankfully, this trend is rapidly changing.

Let’s be honest. Your vehicle chassis carries the entire weight of your vehicle, passengers and goods being transported. When corrosion sets in, it compromises the integrity of the chassis, thereby placing you at risk by snapping or breaking and causing an accident or worse.

Slapping on a coat of paint only hides the rust. This is not the ideal solution as rust continues to creep underneath the paint, slowly eating away at the substrate.

It is therefore critical to choose the correct anti-corrosion treatment for your vehicle chassis.

Let’s look at some options available on the market.

Rust Converters

Whilst these products are excellent for use in and around the house, as a chassis treatment it offers only temporary protection. Chassis rust needs to be completely removed with a chelating agent and / or sanding and mechanical removal. A rust converter will generally convert the top layer of rust, leaving the remaining rust to continue corroding the substrate.

Bitumen and Rubberising

Once again, fantastic products, when used as waterproofing.

In our South African environment with hot summers, Bitumen softens in the heat, allowing contaminants to migrate to the substrate. When it cools down, it contracts again, trapping these contaminates, causing corrosion where the eye cannot see.

A pin prick of damage in rubberising causes moisture to creep in between the coating and substrate, again causing corrosion that will only be discovered when it is too late.

Removal of bitumen and rubberising is costly, time consuming and cannot be overcoated. Sandblasting is required to remove these products.

Wax Coatings

Wax Coatings are self-sealing, meaning that when damage occurs, it has the ability to repair itself. As it self-seals, it traps moisture and contaminants between the coating and substrate, resulting in rust creep. Additionally it never completely cures and will drip when the weather is hot.

Powder Coating

Powder Coating is unsuitable for vehicle chassis due to its inflexible nature. Easily damaged, it does not offer sufficient protection against rust creep.

Powder Coating cannot be repaired and needs to be sandblasted and re-coated, making this an expensive and ineffective option.

Aftermarket Paint Products

When choosing the best paint, the following properties are crucial:

Adhesion – strong adhesion ensures no flaking, peeling or rust creep
Strength – chip and scrape resistance
Flexibility – a vehicle chassis constantly flexes and bends, the coating must be able to move with the chassis
Excellent anti-corrosion properties
Acid, Salt and Alkaline resistant
Thin Film even application – your mechanic will love you. No changes in nut and bolt sizes.
Easy chip and chafing damage repair – choose a product with multiple over coating abilities that does not require the removal of the paint before reapplying.

No paint is bullet proof. Off-roading vehicles will experience stone chips, scraping and sand blasting. Easy repair will save thousands in recoating.

Oil Coatings

Choose oil that penetrates , dries and has been tested against acid, salt and alkaline drag. Most oils on the market stay wet, dripping all over the place and needs to be reapplied frequently. Dust and grime settles in the wet oil, resulting in a dirty looking chassis.

Before spending hard earned cash on products that only tick some of these requirements, contact us for solutions that have stood the test of time, and carry the “Anthony” stamp of approval.

When all is said and done, proper chassis maintenance will add years to the longevity of your vehicle.

Anthony Anti-Corrosion Coatings and Supplies BLOG

The Rainbow of Rust: Uncovering the Causes Behind Different Coloured Rust

Rust: What you need to know

What you can expect from an Anthony Chassis Treatment

**Spoiler alert** We do not just "slap on a coat of paint".

Frequently Asked Questions

Everything you need to know, and more.

Chassis Corrosion – The Underestimated Killer

Chassis Corrosion – The Underestimated Killer

I got stuck on the beach with my vehicle. Now what?

The Importance of Choosing the Correct Anti-Corrosion Treatment for your Vehicle Chassis

Spoiler alert We do not just "slap on a coat of paint".